Step 1: Print the parts
MakerBot Replicator was used for this project. This is the original plywood one which cost less than half as much as the current post-corporate buyout version.
Files were made on Google Sketchup 8.0 (.skp files) then exported as .stl files for the printer using a plugin.
NOTES ON PRINTING:
a) The hinge pins were printed out horizontally, no raft.
b) The levers were printed out on one side edge (not flat on print bed else edges curl up). This makes the holes each side nice and strong also.
c) The main body is tricky. For this project, it was printed from the base upwards, i.e. NOT laying flat on print bed else it curves and Kindle will not slide in. I DO use a raft and support for this part.
Note: If the room is cold, the only way to stop cracking and shrinking was to panel in all sides of machine and use a cardboard box as a top cover. This keeps everything warm inside and stops shrinkage. Earlier versions printed OK in hot summer weather without having to do the extra steps.
Cover the print bed with "slurry" method: dissolve spare ABS plastic shavings in an egg cup of acetone until it forms a thin layer of goo. Smear print bed with this ABS slurry using a cotton bud and things will stick to the Kapton tape.
Step 2: Clean up the prints (a)
Use file to carefully clean all the dross out of the channels the Kindle will slide down into.
The Kindle will be a firm fit but not really tight else plastic will just crack.
Note: When Kindle inserted you can still insert power lead to charge it without having to take it out of the plastic frame. Leave a hole in underside for the charging lead. This is good as could damage the 3D print sliding the Kindle in and out all the time.
Step 3: Clean up the prints (b)
Clean the tabs especially at sides where hinges will go.
Step 4: Clean up the prints (c)
This is delicate, use small needle file to clean out holes each side where the hinge pins will go.
Step 5: Assemble the hinges (a)
The hinge pins slide in from each side of the tab. Trial fit everything first, make sure the tabs move freely before you start gluing in the hinge pins. File the pins very slightly if required. Glue them with thick superglue and use the ABS slurry again.
Mix spare ABS plastic with acetone, leave it to evaporate a little until is a thick goo. With a cotton bud use it to glue the pins in each side.
NOTE: The actual pin end that inserts into the tab should have NO glue on it else they will not fold up and down once all is set. Put the slurry/glue where shown by the arrows and do not overdo it. You can always add a little more on surface later in the process.
Hold pins in correct position until they set. This does not take long. Make sure tab moves freely as things set (very gently). It is very handy to use a pair of cheap plastic magnifying spectacles or similar when doing all this.
Step 6: Assemble the hinges (b)
Step 7: Assemble the hinges (c)
Step 8: Hinges finished
The hinged tabs should move freely else it will not work!
Step 9: Assemble the big power on/off button on underside
This is a new improved addition to the design. Pressing the tab puts pressure on the tiny power on/off button on underside of the Kindle. File it carefully until it just fits nicely. Once you have printed it out you will see how it goes together.
The tab on underside in orange is hinged on the right. A large round pin is pushed through main frame and secured with small dab of slurry/glue, once all holes have been filed out, cleaned up carefully and everything trial fitted first.
If you do not need this feature then just do not bother fitting it.
Step 10: Slide in Kindle and you are ready to go.
Slide in the Kindle. It should be a firm fit but do not force it else the printed plastic will crack. Check you have filed out any printer debris from the guide channels on each side. You should then be ready to go.
If you use a Kindle in bed a useful addition is a pyramid shaped cushion to go on your lap, which you can buy for reading books in bed.